I’ll eat humble pie – the Algarve is a foodie’s heaven: Fresh fish, custard tarts, and the best steakhouse in Portugal

  • The Mail on Sunday's Katie Nicholl stayed at the new Anantara Vilamoura resort
  • Gastronomic highlights included Bovino, 'the best steakhouse in Portugal'
  • The resort's head chef also took her to the famous Loule food market

I might have to apologise to the good people of the Algarve. 

For years I’ve been put off visiting Portugal’s sunshinesoaked coast, assuming it was just a golfer’s haven. But after a week in pretty Vilamoura, I can’t wait to go back. 

While you can’t quite get away from golf – there are six courses in Vilamoura alone – there was also, I discovered, plenty to explore with my curious four-year-old, Matilda, in tow. And the food was divine. 

Katie, pictured with her husband Chris and four-year-old daughter Matilda at the famed Loule food market in Portugal's Algarve

Katie, pictured with her husband Chris and four-year-old daughter Matilda at the famed Loule food market in Portugal's Algarve

Our base for the week was the five-star Anantara Vilamoura, which had been open for only a couple of weeks when we arrived. The hotel and spa chain is world-famous but the resort in Vilamoura is its first European base. 

The resort, a 30-minute drive from Faro airport and just ten minutes from Vilamoura marina, is everything you might expect of the Anantara group. 

The 280 rooms are beautifully furnished with balconies overlooking pristine grounds, pools and the lush Oceanico golf course. With tennis courts and five swimming pools, visitors are spoilt for choice, and there’s a beautiful rooftop spa with a wonderful hydrotherapy pool. 

There’s a real emphasis on gastronomy at the Anantara Vilamoura, with a focus on Portugal’s traditional fare. Breakfast served on the terrace was one of the highlights of my day. 

Freshly pressed juices are served alongside fruit platters heaving with the country’s famously sweet oranges, artisan breads and delicious pastries. The pastel de natas – traditional custard tarts – are hard to resist. 

The pancake station became Matilda’s morning hangout spot before she headed to the kids’ club. The Adventurer’s Club is one of the hotel’s biggest plus points for those with young families. One of the staff used to be a housekeeper at Buckingham Palace so standards are high! 

Their base for the week was the five-star Anantara Vilamoura (pictured) which had been open for only a couple of weeks when they arrived - and certainly looks brand new

Their base for the week was the five-star Anantara Vilamoura (pictured) which had been open for only a couple of weeks when they arrived - and certainly looks brand new

What I noticed was how creative the play sessions were. Every day Matilda made something different, be it a handbag, a purse or a dolls’ house. It was hard tearing her away at lunchtime but equally lovely to be able to relax by the pool with my husband, Chris, knowing that she was having so much fun. 

I loved the five-star poolside experience. Butlers in blue shorts, white shirts and straw hats waited on us with ice-cold towels and complimentary fresh juice. 

The Ria restaurant overlooks the pool and serves freshly caught fish daily. We were keen to explore the surrounding area and the hotel offers a courtesy tuk-tuk shuttle service to local attractions. 

It’s worth visiting the Cerro da Vila Roman ruins near the marina where you can see beautiful mosaics and artefacts, while the hotel can also arrange ‘experience’ days out, such as private boat trips along the Ria Formosa lagoon. 

Go for the signature steak platter – and arrive hungry! 

The day costs €775 (£705) for five and includes a visit to the area’s water farms, where you can go fishing, or clam and oyster picking. Lunch is served on the remote Culatra Island where you cook the shellfish you have picked on a barbecue on the beach. 

We also opted for a cookery class, which included a visit to the town of Loule, home to a famous food market. Accompanied by the hotel’s head chef, Bruno Viegas, we browsed the fish and vegetable stalls and selected red mullet, deliciously ripe tomatoes, peppers and spices, which we took back to the hotel and prepared for lunch. 

My find of the holiday was Bovino. I was told it was the best steakhouse in Portugal, and it lived up to its reputation. You can dine in the garden, where there is also a play area for children. 

If you’re lucky enough to have George as your maitre d you are in for a treat. Formerly a head waiter at The Savoy, there is little that this man does not know about prime beef or fine wine. 

Go for the signature steak platter – and arrive hungry!

TRAVEL FACTS 

Anantara Vilamoura offers double rooms from £228 per night including breakfast. 

Visit vilamoura.anantara.com

British Airways (ba.com) flies to Faro from Heathrow, Gatwick, London City and Stansted, with return fares starting at £76.  

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